Friday, 29 September 2017

Burt's Bees Lip Crayon

Sometimes my attraction to or disinclination towards a lipstick can be entirely due to it's appearance.  I like them to look simple and high quality, so I am attracted to bullets in black cases, not clear plastic or bright colours.  Speaking sternly to myself I attempted to overcome this unhelpful bias and I picked up a Burt's Bees Lip Crayon from a sale bin at the grocery store, on a whim of course, because the colour appeared to have potential, as a bright coral-pink.  I knew that the Burt's Bees lippies tended to be sheer and not densely pigmented which is often considered a sign of poor quality but I am better off with a sheer look so can perhaps disregard this pigment issue.

It has the strange name -Niagra Overlook and with my luck it's probably discontinued.

This is how it looks on me in bright, natural light but overcast sky.  And for the record, this shirt probably isn't a True Spring colour ( might be the darkest yellow in the swatch ) but it works okay being relatively warm and bright.  I suspect yellows are the easiest colour for a Spring to fudge, maybe oranges and yellow-greens too.
 




I think I have found a winner here.  The formula is sheer and feels light and not drying, though not quite moisturizing either.   I can scribble this colour liberally all over my lips and build up the colour without getting the too heavy look that happens so easily for me. I don't have to blot.

It has no added detectable flavour or fragrance which is a must for me and rules out many other drug store brands.

My lips tend to skew lipsticks extra pink so it might look more coral on another person whereas it's warm pink on me.   It appears to harmonize with the colouring in my face, looking a bit like I am wearing a matching blusher, so if I am actually a True Spring this might be a True Spring potential for others to try.  I have no makeup on other than this lippie so you can see it without the influence of other facial decoration.  And because that's how I do it.

It's as good or better than the Revlon lip crayons but I have never tried the Clinique brand.  The price is roughly the same as Revlon.

At the time of this post I can say that it lasts on my lips for a few hours but it does transfer onto a wine glass quite readily.   After two glasses of wine and some cheese I still had a bit of colour on my lips and a fair bit of grease and wax had transferred onto the wine glass, which I kept self-consciously wiping off with my thumb.  By the time I'd eaten a few shrimp it was gone.

Here are the pros and cons by my standards. 

Pros:

Nice texture and feel,  good colour, no fragrance or flavour, reasonable price

Cons:

Not long lasting, packaging is not elegant

Wednesday, 27 September 2017

What IF? Nah

Ruling out Bright Spring for myself was as easy as ruling out Light Spring.  I know colours can get too cool and bright for me and that I don't suit pastels. 

Looking at Pinterest can mislead, as many people pinning images are only making guesses or choosing images based on their misconceptions.  I am sure I do that too. I use my boards as a learning tool as I practice seeing what colours belong in which palette.  I notice that many people with True Spring Pinterest boards cannot distinguish between Bright Spring and True Spring, perhaps because True Spring can seem very bright without comparison.

I think that seeing colours might be a bit like hearing music.  Some people are tone deaf and while it's not the same as actual colour blindness ( such as seeing red when something is green ) some people don't see colours for what they truly are, don't see undertones or distinguish readily between warmth and coolness.  Many people like a colour and so when they see it on a person they think it looks good because they like the colour.  They don't see whether it harmonises with that person or not, or recognise that perhaps what is seen first is the garment and not the person.  Such people are not the ones you want to take shopping with you.  My mother and my partner are like this.  Mum likes cool colours and Jim likes bright colours.  I think they would dress everyone in the world in these colours if they were in charge.  It works for them however, because their bias seems to be towards what suits them.  They think they are just dressing in what they like best, but I wonder if there is something else involved.  If our favourite colours are colours we are likely to recognise as the colours of ourselves.

My own relationship to the colours I wear has been more complicated than it needed to be because I had troubles seeing myself accurately and instead of trusting my gut I allowed other factors to lead me astray.  I've learned much about colour and particularly about personal colour analysis.  I've tried wearing almost every palette, definitely one or two from each of the four seasons.  Some are more obviously unflattering than others and until you see yourself really glow in a colour you don't really know what you are looking for.  The two Bright seasons overwhelm me and because of that I assumed True Spring would also be too bright. 

This is What I Know

Have you ever bought some off white paint, not just the plain white as it comes initially but something with a name that the paint store mixes for you?  The recipe they follow to mix up something called Cloud White will contain a small amount of colour, often colours you wouldn't predict, although they don't show, you just see a particular type of white.  Some people don't see the difference between all of these 'whites' readily.  Others, like me, can spend hours, days, years, trying to find just the right white paint.  Put it on the wall and you will notice that it changes in the light.  Undertones show up and it may read as a bit blue or green or yellow, perhaps a bit pink/purple.  This is how it works with the colours that are selected for the different palettes in a 12 tone personal colour system designed by Sci/Art.  This is a guide to finding your very best and most compatible colours, although in reality, shopping for them is less precise.

So, the Bright Spring palette is a different mix in all of the colour options and because someone who suits the Bright Spring palette is neutral-warm there is an aspect of coolness in this mix and I only understand this slightly as I am not trained in colour mixing or colour theory. 

 The Sci/Art system of PCA was developed by an artist and colour specialist and every palette has shared properties contained in the colour mixes.   Coolness comes from a touch of blue, but also black, grey or white. Grey also gives softness or mutedness.  The colours of Bright Spring are highly saturated and neutral-warm.  The sister seasonal palette is Bright Winter, which has colours that are neutral-cool.  The warmth or coolness of the neutral seasons isn't always as obvious without comparisons and having said that, all colour properties are best seen with comparison.

Some Comparisons
                                                                                                            

Bright Spring has a lot of pink, and with a touch of cooling blue added to it the Bright Spring pink is a bit purpled.  True Spring has just a little pink and it's coral in comparison, though it can read as pink on a True Spring person.   

It looks like this...



                                                                Source




                                                         

Charlize Theron, also typed as a likely True Spring, is not quite pulling off this purpled bright pink.  It competes with her golden tones. You see the dress before you see her stunning face and harmony isn't happening.

                                                  Source unknown to me


Christina Hendricks is often typed as a True Spring but I think she might be a Bright Spring.  She looks amazing in that slightly purpled bright pink as well as black mixed with brights and she pulls off a really red lip quite well.  Also the very bright red wigs suit her and look more natural than the super bright red does on Marcia Cross.





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Black isn't the most exciting colour she can wear, but it doesn't fade her.  She is equal to it it's strength and the strength of that lipstick.

                                                                 Source
                                     

Too bad this photo didn't have a plain background, but even then Christina stands out against it.
     
                                                                  Source


 It could be difficult to tell if a colour is Bright Spring or True Spring just by looking at it but comparison helps.  Next to Bright Spring True Spring begins to look soft.  What I try to keep in mind is that 'bright' is not the adjective I want, clear is.  That is, True Spring colours are purely warm, but they are clear where True Autumn is muted.  Just how similar clear and bright are is perhaps still problematic, especially since Bright Spring is also sometimes referred to as Clear Spring.  Ah semantics!

 Compare Bright Spring test drapes with those of True Spring and some differences stand out while other colours seem similar.  In the real world of dressing, there will be colours that could go with either palette and the person works them into an outfit where they will end up looking like they belong if they have enough in common with the other colours.





                                                                 Source

     

Bright Spring PCA

This gorgeous woman was analysed as a Bright Spring.  She balances black quite well even though she shines more in colour.  I don't think I balance black and I think these colours are too cool for me. 

                                                            Source

Not all Bright Springs look as dark and cool, though.  This woman is also a Bright Spring. 

                                                                Source

                                                           

Here are some images that convey the palette of Bright/Clear Spring.  They can all be found on this Pinterest board though that's not their original source.  I'm lazy.


I think of fruit candy, lollipops and jellybeans.  The mood is bright, fun, creative, and a bit Cyndi Lauper. 

I really do not think this would look right on me but it all looks very pretty with her skin tone.

                                                               Source

And here are some images for True Spring by the same pinner on this board.





The colours are still bright, but there is a lightness, a sense of sunshine and freshness.  The palette has a fruit and flowers feel, lit by sunshine.  Warmth is the first criteria not brightness.

On graphics like these below some of the colours look the same but that's more a misleading effect based on the limits of a computer model.  Mostly you get the idea that Bright Spring is brighter and contains some colours in the palette that are cooler, like black and bright pink, which I've used as my guide to ruling out that palette for myself.  Also note that Bright Spring doesn't have brown in the palette.  A Bright Spring person might cheat some brown in if they lean warmer than some, but it's not a colour they shine in.  True Spring does well in golden browns.



                                                                 Source

The palest colours of the two palettes are also a bit different, with Bright Spring having somewhat icy colours and True Spring having softer more pastel type light colours.

For the most part, because bright pink and black drain colour out of my face and it is possible to put a colour on me and immediately think 'no, that's too bright, too much," I am fairly sure I can rule out Bright Spring.




Tuesday, 26 September 2017

Light not Soft and Brighter Than You Think

 Finding your best colours is about wearing them, not taking quizzes online or determining what your own colour qualities are and thus concluding you fit with the matching palette.  That may or may not work.  It's a process of looking at colour near your face but I cannot do anything without a great deal of thinking my way through it.  I intellectualise everything including trying to figure out my own emotions.  In the case of finding my best colours it's not totally ridiculous.  I am synthesising what I learn, trying to understand what I am seeing, and I am sharing that on this blog for others who might be on the same path or who just like watching another person's journey.


At one point in my colour exploration I thought I was soft.  People who wear the Soft Season colours are often muted, blended and have a very medium contrast value.  This isn't a given as not everyone shows obvious signs of the qualities of their palette, but I thought I was seeing softness and I felt fairly certain about medium values so I tried the two Soft Seasons eventually concluding that they were not enough on me, not warm enough, not strong enough.  I now think that what I was seeing might be what is described as delicate and applies to Spring, more specifically the Light and True Spring seasons.  I don't think of myself as delicate or even light, so those words would not have resonated with me before.

I had dabbled in beige when I tried Soft and then abandoned it, figuring I needed something more like camel.  True Autumn and True Spring do both wear camel colours but slightly different ones.  The Spring camel is lighter and more golden.

Recently I purchased a wool coat that seemed made for me in terms of colour, unless I am deluding myself. When I put it on the colour just seemed to belong on my body, as though it was in imitation of colours already there.  I would describe it as a camel that has a golden peach quality which doesn't show up to maximum effect in this first photo.

Here I am in the coat and once again I can see how I might have looked at this photo and seen a soft person. 





I'm not wearing any makeup except for a tinted lip balm and there is good natural light.  There is a slight bleaching/cooling effect going on though which I notice happens to yellows and golds when I photograph them near this large kitchen window. 

 A hint of my shirt is showing and reminding me that a Spring is best in a mixture of colours I would wear this coat with a scarf.  Where once I would have read this photo as soft I now see clear, light and delicate.  Remember we are talking about my skin.  I know my hair is not light and it doesn't matter.





This is a better photo of the coat colour and I've paired it with a scarf that I am pretty sure is a True Spring green.  It's not yet cool enough to wear these but I am looking forward to it.



These other two scarves are autumnal looking although they could still potentially be True Spring colours.  The more muted looking one is a little less muted in reality but it does look more drab near my brighter green scarf and that multicoloured one.  If you look closely the skinny stripes in it are actually Spring-type orange and turquoise.




It's not a given that a True Spring will look light and delicate as not everyone appears as a match to the descriptors of their palette.  I would not have described myself as 'light' if asked though I realise my skin is.  I do tan if exposed to lots of sun but it's a slow process and going from very fair to lightly tanned doesn't make a very noticeable difference.

I also get freckles in somewhat the same colour as my new coat.






Sunday, 24 September 2017

Yellow is the Epitome of Spring



An inspection of my current wardrobe seems to indicate that I have bought some True Spring clothing.  While both the True Autumn palette and the True Spring palette are mainly medium in value, they have their range of light-dark under that medium umbrella, and True Spring has an overall lighter impression than True Autumn does.  Autumn gets darker, richer, and Spring has a light feel like sunshine, fruit, flowers, it's juicy whereas Autumn is heavier, drier, velvety and with a golden glow rather than bright Spring light.  I find it helps to keep these words in mind when looking at colours. 

It's not always easy to see the difference between soft/muted and light unless they can be compared next to each other.  Some practice helps and while I am rapidly learning, I still tend to just feel happy to find something purely warm and I'm less fussed about how muted or how clear and light it is.  I tend to aim for perfection but realise it's not a real-world thing.  I take an aim for the stars and reach the moon approach to many things in life and also in finding the best colours.

I am now thinking of myself as a True Spring more than a True Autumn.   The dark end of True Autumn is not great on me.  It's good because it's warm, but it looks a bit heavy and forced. As I've moved away from trying to visually identify the colours and begun to think more about their properties I am gaining knowledge and getting better at finding what works best for me.   I learned in makeup before I learned with clothing that I need a light, sheer, clear effect.  Makeup is easily too heavy and thick looking, darker colours too forced looking. This is a texture issue as much as a colour issue with makeup, and it can be in clothing too although it's also about the visual weight of the colours.
 

But I am digressing as this post is supposed to be about yellow.  


Colour is always about context and it reads differently on different people, whether applied to the face as makeup or worn next to the body in clothing.  As it reflects onto our faces it either harmonises and flatters or it makes no connection, possibly reflecting unflattering colours onto us.  This is why everyone except True Spring people tend to look yellow in the Spring colours.  The True Spring colours are very yellow based.  This has something to do with undertones and overtones that is a little tricky to understand.  Overtones are what we see and match foundation to but undertone seems to be what matters when we wear clothing.  Many people in the neutral seasons have a yellowish overtone and my understanding is that this gets played up when wearing yellowish colours and it doesn't work out well with the cool undertones of that person.   I could be totally wrong about this.

A person with a warm undertone and overtone suits the two true warm palettes, but Spring is more about pure yellow while Autumn is gold or browned-yellow. 

Anyhow, True Spring is about yellow!


In cool colours I look pale and slightly grey. I used to think this was good because I knew I tended to be yellow looking and thought that was something I wanted to downplay or avoid.  I had not seen myself get a golden glow or look all peaches and cream because I'd not tried the very warm yellow based colours.  I thought pale and grey looked good as long as I could pink it up a bit with some makeup.


And What About a Yellow Personality?


What happens when your personality doesn't quite match your best palette?  I tend to think that logically, what is visually best is the best choice, and personality comes second.  This is why I have troubles with the Dressing Your Truth system which has a really incomplete and inaccurate selection of colours assigned to palettes that are meant to go with your personal energy level.  Nope, I'm not buying it.  I think it's hit and miss or in the ball park good enough.  I don't buy into the personality descriptors attached to the personal colour seasons either but I would agree that each colour palette does have a mood.

Perhaps, as dear Jazzy Jack suggested to me, I am one thing on the outside and another on the inside.  That doesn't sound too crazy.  I often am surprised at how people judge me to be very warm and friendly and bubbly and even sweet.    That is not at all how I see myself, but is anyone all sunshine and happy thoughts all of the time, or could someone who presents that way to others consider herself a more serious and grounded person?  None of us is a caricature.

Someone recently suggested that I remind her of Julie Andrews.  Well, colour me astonished!

The True Spring personality is described as extroverted.  Hah!  I am not, but I do have the ability to fake it.  Spend a short time with me and you might see an extrovert.  I can be bubbly when socialising, I just don't care to socialise much.  This is how people confuse shyness with extroversion.  I am not shy.  I can be quite outgoing and will talk to strangers.
I am more shy with women than men which is something I haven't quite figured out though I have a few theories.

  I am equally optimistic and pessimistic.  I call myself a realist who usually likes to look on the bright side but I also like to expect the worst and be pleasantly surprised.  I do not feel like sunshine personified and yet I've had a few people tell me I am,  even that I have a yellow aura or that I conjure up the idea of yellow.   My ex husband used to tell me my skin is yellow, but that seemed less complimentary than the other statements, which were made by gay men if that matters at all.

I am often serious, pedantic, judgemental and have a sarcastic sense of humour.

Spring personalities are  considered to be a bit happy-go-lucky, easy going and go-with-the-flow.  I am generally a planner, a be-prepared-for anything sort of person, someone who is a bit rattled if her plans get ruined at the last minute though I will do my best not to show that and to get over it. 

Does any of this mean anything?  Probably not, but it's all my way of getting at the point that I don't see myself in the described persona of the True Spring type person which may be why subconsciously I didn't connect myself to those colours.


 I Will Try to Get Back to Actual Colours Now...

 While the colours of the True Spring palette are not as bright as some other seasons, they can look bright compared with True Autumn and the Soft Seasons which all have a muted quality.  True Spring colours are clear and warm, so the yellows don't go too far into gold, because the more brown added the more muted the colour gets.

Jim has two yellow tee shirts which I keep trying on.  ( I wore one in a recent post and have photographed myself in the other. )  I have taken several photos attempting to capture what I look like wearing yellow but they are never satisfactorily close enough to reality.  It was in trying to photograph yellow that I realised how often my photos came out cooler than reality. 


I recently purchased this flowered top, a colour that has something similar in both the Autumn and Spring palettes.  It's certainly a gold-yellow but doesn't seem muted like Autumn.  It looks like it belongs in the Bright Spring or Dark Autumn palette according to the photo below but it could be the last yellow on the True Spring strip.  Photo inaccuracy wouldn't allow such certainty.






I could be wrong, but I suspect  yellow might be a colour with a fair bit of leeway for a Spring, like blue is for a Summer.  Yellow doesn't seem to be the best test colour for me to choose between True Spring and Bright Spring, whereas pink is significant.  The Bright Spring palette contains a lot of pinks that are bright and a bit cooler and they just seem to overwhelm me.  


A Yellow Comparison

Further down I've used an image of the Bright Spring test drapes and they seem much brighter than the strip of colour in the image below.  Given that I experience a bleaching out of colour in my own photos quite often, especially of yellow, I don't really expect the image below to be accurate for specific colours but it shows that there is some difference between the palettes that contain a lot of yellow and how yellow gets browner in Autumn.


                                                              Source




This tee shirt looks like it could be  Bright Spring and I'm not wearing it as well as the woman below me would but it's not as bad as I would have expected.  Brightness is not likely my dominant requirement though, and I still think pure warmth is. And while I might pull off some of the warmest ( yellowest ) colours in a Bright Spring palette I'm doubtful about all of them.  (There is a post about that coming up.)




                                                        
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And in the realm of 'sort of yellow', I always find beige difficult and knew that while beige is admittedly not an exciting colour on most people except perhaps Soft Autumn whom it is sublimely beautiful on, there would still be a best beige for most pallettes.  It may be more taupe or a greener/khaki colour for some.  For Spring it is quite golden and that will be why beige never worked for me.  I've never tried a golden beige and the beiges I tried, which were too cool, always looked flat.  Some of these would be so close to my actual skin tone they would read as a nude.  Not a good idea for a pair of pants, then!

                                                                                            
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 Yellow Hair
                                                              
Spring people often, though not always, suit golden-blonde hair, because that hair colour is essentially a large swath of warm yellow next to their face. 

Michelle Williams looks amazing in golden blonde or red-gold hair, but her natural colour is brown.  Here she is looking fantastic in yellow hair and yellow dress, although it may not be in the True Spring palette, exactly and neither is that bright red lipstick.

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Here she is  looking pretty in reddish-brown hair.  This may not be  unenhanced colour, but most True Springs are naturally brunettes, at least as adults.  You might look at this and see an Autumn woman.


                                                                    
In case you want more on Springs with brown hair I will link to this 12 Blueprints article which I found interesting.  There is also this one.  These may both be of interest to anyone like me, with dark hair but fair, warm skin.  If you search the 12 Blueprints blog you will also find a post about a woman with quite dark hair and fair skin who is a Light Spring.  I'd say it's a less predictable and very appealing look compared to the stereotypical dyed-blonde coloured Light Spring.


At the fantastic blog Truth is Beauty, Rachel has a post about the difficulty many Spring women have in recognising they are Springs because the majority of the Spring celebrities are not only dyed blonde, but claiming to be 'natural' blondes with a rather loose definition of natural.*  This complaint is not aimed at the women themselves but at the system they are having to work within.  Hollywood perpetuates a blonde is better attitude and also insists on forcing the myth that many of it's blondes are natural blonde.  I don't even understand why this myth is required, but I suppose it's to perpetuate the idea that these women are just that much better than the rest of us.  I suspect this isn't even something the women of Hollywood are keen on so much as a publicity machine they are trapped in.

Some systems and online personal colour experts would guide you to figuring out your seasonal palette based on the colours of your hair and eyes, which is really not a good system at all.  These are the ones that typically give us celebrity examples to measure ourselves by.  In reality, a Spring might look similar to an Autumn and a Summer might look similar to a Winter and the eight neutral season types often do not even look obviously cool or warm so you can't tell what they are until you put colours next to their faces in real life and see how that colour makes the skin react.

Here is a typical example of what the internet has to offer people wondering if they are a Spring.


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 It takes some digging to learn that you could definitely be a Spring even if you are a brunette and your eyes are not nearly that bright or monochromatic.  The only truly useful thing about this sort of graphic is the colour palette shown, at which you could look and then ask yourself, 'do I look good in these colours?'



*This reminds me of the other popular myth,  that celebrities have lost all their pregnancy weight by 'chasing around after a toddler' or breastfeeding.  Unless they have a contract with a weight loss company that is and then they admit to dieting.




Saturday, 23 September 2017

Lipstick Tests


I took advantage of a sale and expanded my lipstick collection, knowing I was experimenting and would probably not be happy with all the colours.  The down side to the sale was that it was in a large supermarket where there is no cosmetics counter person ready to sanitize the testers so you can try before you buy.  I often find that in these larger stores many testers are missing anyhow.  So armed with a list of colours I'd explored on Pinterest and wanted to try, I purchased three new colours and am really only happy with one.  I've got some recent purchases from earlier this summer which have made an appearance in other photos on this blog but I thought I'd do a little colour review.

I know from my own experience that what colours look like on other people doesn't tell you  much about how they will look on you, and accuracy of swatches and images of the lipstick itself are not much help either.  People's attempts to describe the colour can also be wildly off.  So this blog post is probably of no use to anyone except me.


                                               Revlon Super Lustrous  Coral Berry

This one is taking a bit of getting used to and I alternate between loving it and not sure.  It seems to depend on the lighting I see it in.  

TLDR: I think I like this one

                                     Revlon Super Lustrous Kiss Me Coral

This one is really quite orange, which seems to suit me but I'm more inclined to favour a natural look so I'm not sure about this one. It's brighter in reality than this photo shows and I might look a bit like I've just eaten some spaghetti sauce.  It might be more suited to Bright Spring or a True Autumn with darker natural lip pigment. Again, if I lean back and view my screen from a distance it looks a bit neon but I don't think that is the normal effect.

TLDR: Not going to work for me as a lip colour but I'd wear this colour in a dress.


                                       Revlon Super Lustrous Ravish Me Red

I know this photo is cropped a bit strangely but as you can still see I had a bit of a showing bra strap issue.  Story of my life.  Anyhow, this colour is my attempt at doing a true red lip.  I feel uncomfortable in something this bright but that might be me and nothing to do with whether or not I can pull this off.  It's a warm tomato red and I usually blot it but here I didn't.  Blotted, I love it.

TLDR:  Yes, to this one.

I wouldn't normally pair this next one with a coral shirt as it's a truer pink colour.

                                        Revlon Super Lustrous Teak Rose

                      This one can  look like a very pink-red when unblotted.



My favourite, easy to wear, no need to blot colour is Abstract Orange.  It's very dark in the tube but sheer enough that it's not dark on my lips.  As you can see, I've given up about the bra strap.

                                            Revlon Super Lustrous Abstract Orange


The lighting in the above photos is a little sun-bleached but the effect is the same, since stonger or weaker lighting changes my appearance along with the lipstick.  Still, if the lip colour looks bolder to my eye it tends to make me nervous.   In some ways, the above photos are like the blotted effect even though I wore the colours full strength.


Two of my lippie colours are also, strangely, gold pearl finishes.  I have mixed feelings about that as in some light the pearl is noticeable and I am not a fan of glitter. Some clouds had covered the sun by the time I got to this photo, and  colours are not so sun bleached.

                                           Revlon Super Lustrous Peach Me


This last one is a dud and I'm annoyed that I grabbed it on a whim.   Revlon lipsticks on sale are very affordable, though.  It looks better on me in this photo than in reality, as  it's too cool and pale. 


                                           Revlon Super Lustrous Demure

I can't bring myself to spend what a Mac or Nars lipstick would cost unless I've spent it experimenting with several different colours.


Overall, my favourite every day options are  Abstract Orange, Peach Me despite the gold shimmer, and Ravish Me Red blotted.  I am waffling on Coral Berry.  Just when I think I like it, I see it in different lighting and it looks too pink.   My favourite more dramatic looks are Teak Rose and Ravish Me Red less blotted but that's  pushing my comfort zone and I rarely, if ever, wear a dramatic look.

I think it's time to stop spending money and make Abstract Orange my signature lippie.

For the most part I end up with too pale, too dark, too bright, too orange, too brown or too pink, too frosty or too thick.

Am I a True Spring or am I a True Autumn who looks best in the light end of the palette?  I still don't know and this experiment didn't tell me, perhaps because I don't know what to look for.  I suspect the ones that don't work for me might be  Light Spring and Bright Spring.  The ones that do work might work on both True Spring and True Autumn depending on the person.

Friday, 22 September 2017

Pink Is Problematic

Knowing a season that fits you, having a palette fan, looking at images online, none of those things guarantee that the colours you are looking for are in the store or that you will be able to distinguish your best blues from all the other blues.  It takes practice and it takes comparison.

I have difficulty identifying the warmth of colours that are not inherently warm.   It's a bit of a simplification to say the colours I am looking for are warm ones, as the question is how warm, warmed with what, yellow or gold and while it is easier to fudge with the colours that always seem warm, like peach, coral, yellow or orange, and red and green always seem more obvious in it's relative warmth or coolness to me, I have difficult with pink, purple and blue as well as the turquoise/teal range.  Teal and turquoise are often considered universally flattering colours as they are made of colours from both the warm and cool side of the colour wheel.  However, they can lean warmer or cooler, depending on the mix.

More accurately, I should say they can have more yellow or more blue.

There is a version of nearly every colour in every seasonal palette, with the exception of yellow and orange for the coolest palettes.  True Summer has no orange and it's rare, very cool yellow is difficult to find and identify.  It seems that every colour can be warmed up enough for the Spring palette and I find the bright pink very tricky.


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When I see it in comparison to the purple-looking magenta pinks of the Winter palette it makes more sense but it seems about as rare as the cool, pale yellow of the summer palette.  This is why Christine Scaman recommends comparing colours in the store, gathering up garments of similar colour even though you don't intend to try them on or buy them.  Compare all the versions of bright pink you find, which  I suppose this will work better in a department store or large thrift shop.  Smaller stores tend to get one set of colours in each season, as though the merchandise all came from the same dye-lot.

 A warm pink that is not muted looks a little as though it is lit from inside with a soft yellow light.  It is almost coral but still one would first say that it is pink.  Depending on which colour system you are looking at, there is more pink or very little pink in the True/Warm Spring palette.  I favour the Sci-Art palettes for their carefully measured colours.  Some systems give me the impression that someone just eye-balled the collection and picked the colours out of a bin.

I used to call a very bright pink 'hot pink' and now I am thinking the term should only be applied to the Spring bright pink, since it is the one that is actually warm.  Bright, magenta-pinks are often very cool and blue-based. 


A Bit of a Digression about Pink Lipstick

Pink lipstick was quite problematic for me until I discovered I needed it to be warmed.  Nervous about bright colours I went in the brown direction until I worked my way through the Soft Season Palettes right into the orange-brown colours of True Autumn.  Brown certainly does warm up a lipstick colour and my natural pigmentation is very pink so lipsticks get even pinker on me than expected.  This seems to turn the oranges into corals but it makes finding a lipstick that will read as pink but not too pink a little bit tricky.  My favourite, Revlon Super Lustrous Abstract orange, which looks brown orange in the tube reads as a bright coral on me. 


I will venture into the corals and lighter oranges next lipstick purchase, which is exactly where a True Spring should go.  I am tiptoeing in though, as they seem bright to me.

Revlon Teak Rose is working for me, I think, though I blot it.  I blot everything except the lightest and sheerest of colours.  Although you won't usually see pinks recommended as lipstick for True Autumn I did spot this one recommended somewhere.  Lipstick results vary according to the pigmentation of your natural lip so these suggestions are guidelines. 

The first photo is wearing Abstract Orange and the second wearing Teak Rose.  In the one minute it took me to change lip colours the light shifted but it's fairly accurate in both photos.





I think these photos show that while there is a pink I can wear, the orange-coral looks better.  It's all just personal taste though.  Because to my eye different lip colours work better with different outfits I like having a pinker option.  Lipstick has become my thing.  I only use minimal eye makeup and nothing else. 


 Comparing Pinks Between Seasons

Here is a graphic showing makeup colour suggestions for the True Spring compared with Bright Winter and True Summer.  See how different the pinks are even when they seem bright.  When the bright pink of the True Spring palette is seen in context with the rest of the palette it just looks like bright pink.  It takes on a more coral appearance in comparison with the blue-pinks of the cooler palettes.   Bright Spring is comparatively cooler than True Spring but in comparison with the other palettes it's hint of a coral look can still be seen.








All graphics belong to and can be found at 12 Blueprints or do a Google  search using the key words 'best makeup colours for" and add the season you want.

Wednesday, 20 September 2017

Crazy for Coral and a Passion for Peach

The weather is cooling and we've had a few days of rain so the dampness makes it feel even colder.   I bundled up in a favourite simple outfit, combining peach, green and cream along with the faded bright blue denim of my favourite jeans, not visible in this photo.  It's a season when people begin to wear darker colours and I'm staying away from them.



I don't know if the colours of my vest and scarf are the lightest end of the True Autumn palette or if they are True Spring but I suspect they are Spring.  My lipstick is a True Spring recommendation and I'm not wearing any other makeup.



Some time ago, I've lost track if it was a year or two years ago, the desire to lighten my palette hit me hard.  Perhaps I once thought that darker colours were more serious and career appropriate.  Perhaps being young and having the dewy freshness of youth, I just didn't notice or care.  As I discovered my warmth and played with the True Autumn palette I lost track a little of my need for lightness.  Or at least I did in terms of trying to identify my palette.  There are light colours in the True Autumn palette but there are also some medium-dark ones and I find myself avoiding them.  Am I avoiding them because I just don't like them or because they feel wrong.  A person could choose to only wear a select few colours from a whole palette but should not feel confined to those.  That would indicate the wrong palette.
           
 This image found on the 12 Blueprints site in a great post about Springs with dark hair, got me thinking about my peach passion.  I love both of the colours in this image.  I would wear both, but I suspect I look better in the Spring peach.

                    

I LOVE the entire True Autumn palette.  I love earthy colours like burnt orange and ochre.  I decorate my home in them.  My desire to wear colours a little lighter may be my need for clearer warm colours asserting itself.  Or it may be my imagination.  In my attempt to purchase True Autumn colours over the past year, I suspect I've actually bought many things in True Spring.   In the end it doesn't matter what it is called, as long as I like it and it works.  But of course I want to know.  That's just how I am. And even though I know that personal colour analysis is about watching colour next to to the face, I am still going to attempt to think my way into this.  That's what I do.

This collage of Spring peach/coral/orange with a dash of yellow really appeals to me.

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My favourite coral tee shirt, which is my favourite of the two corals I own and possibly my favourite tee shirt altogether.  Lippie is a sheer tint from Revlon called Rich Girl Red and generally looks coral on me.



                                                   Brighter more direct light



Spring is a light season and there are many 'experts' who will say it is light, warm and clear so it is for people whose colouring is light, warm and clear.  They then give examples of celebrities with (dyed) blonde hair and point out the overall lightness.  Autumn is a rich season, with medium colours, deep in comparison with Spring.  These same experts will describe it as warm, rich, muted and sometimes use the word deep.  They will give celebrity examples usually with auburn hair, not all natural.  These descriptions are accurate for the colours of the palettes but only accurate for the person's appearance some of the time.

The Spring palette is warm, light, fresh, clear.
The Autumn palette is warm, medium-deep, rich, muted

What gets lost in translation is that these descriptive words might describe the appearance of the individual who wears these palettes but it might not.  The palettes suit the skin of the individual who wears them and the hair colour, eye colour and even the overall impression of lightness or darkness are not that straight forward.

Some other descriptions that I have found helpful though are these.

 Here is a quote from 12 Blueprints.

"Autumn colour is heavy. Like a rug, a warm blanket, a stone fireplace.
Colour is medium to dark.
Colour deposits can be more opaque. The skin is more opaque and needs heavier colour. Like putting makeup on a quilted cloth doll."


I have been observing a blog friend who is a confirmed Autumn.  She is definitely able to wear heavier makeup application, richer colours, deeper, darker more intense colours than I can.  When I wear the True Autumn lipsticks I blot them.  She applies them thickly and liberally and looks amazing.

What are the colours I can apply liberally?  They are Spring colours.

Here is what 12 Blueprints says about Spring makeup.

"Spring is light. Literally, figuratively, subliminally, Spring is light.
Colours are light to medium on the Light >> Dark scale. The brown that looks dark on Scarlet Johanssen looks pale and insignificant on Julia Roberts.
Colour deposits are light and /or sheer, though color is still lively. Like putting makeup on a porcelain doll."

This lipstick swatching was done by Cate Linden, a 12 Blueprints trained analyst and I found the image on Pinterest.  It is an image that confirms for me that I'm favouring Spring lip colours and perhaps explains why the True Autumn light-medium colour options are dark on me so I kept to the light colours or sheer formulas.  I really can't pull off a matte lipstick. 



A year ago I would have laughed at the thought of myself as porcelain doll, and I'd still laugh today, but I do indeed use a very light hand with makeup, liberally apply sheer, light, clear warm colours.  A light golden brown eye pencil reads as enough eyeliner for me.  I was getting this right when I played with the soft palettes, but they were muted and not warm enough.  When I really got into warmth I strayed too far, literally beyond my depth.


Chocolate and peach!  Two of my favourite foods and favourite colours.  I would love to wear this combination and I'd add cream to both the food and colours too!

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I want to be an Autumn.  I love Autumn.  But I don't think I can convince myself that the deep colours are something I can pull off.  I would have thought them safer than colours that read as bright to me, but gradually I am learning the difference between bright and clear.  True Spring colours are not muted, not softened with grey or lightened with white, but the clarity gives them a lightness and a delicacy that seems to be right for me, despite my medium-dark hair.  

Autumn colours and Spring colour sometimes look very similar and I think that is why I've bought more Spring than I initially realised.  It suited me, it looked like an Autumn colour so I convinced myself it was.  There are places where the two palettes diverge and even with the similar colours the key to the difference is whether or not the colour is a version that is clear and fresh looking or muted and rich and earthy looking.  Fabric type can mislead or allow you to fudge a little.  You can and should make personal tweaks to your palette, figuring out your own best lightness-darkness range and which of the makeup rec's work best for you.  But you can also tweak yourself into a different season, which I may have done.


 It's all a matter of playing, with just a few rules so you know the game and the right ball park to play it in.